Chester and beyond

Chester is a lovely city, full of history, elegant buildings, and charm.  I have been surprised that with such a wet climate the buildings here, especially in the market squares, have few, or no verandahs.  In France and other European countries I have been to the shops often have quite wide arcades in front of them, providing shelter, and a meeting place, yet here, with a similar climate I had not seen a similar thing - until I got to Chester.  This city has them in large numbers, though interestingly, most are around the first floor of the buildings, with only a couple on the ground floor that I noticed.

The ornate Victorian clock above the east gate.

Just showing how I rug up in my best merino clothes!  This was the first really cold day.

A Christmas tree amongst the shops.

Chester Cathedral. It was nice to see it in the sunshine.

The other side of the Cathedral.

I love the post boxes here.  It wasn't until my friend Roy pointed it out that I noticed the reigning monarchs initials on them.  Most have ER for Elizabeth, but this one has VR for Victoria!

Just one of the many beautiful buildings in Chester.  Walton's jewellers are on the ground floor, but notice the arcade continuing in both directions at the top of the stairs, the length of the street

Up on the first floor arcade this is what you see.

After leaving Chester I took quiet back roads to Wrexham and was impressed with this tree sending its roots down, despite the rock.

The church at the village of Rossett.  I'm taken with the Lych gates that I have been seeing at the churches over the past few weeks.

The first village I saw in Wales, Gresford, was quite intriguing.  All the cottages had a circular room, a bit like a church porch, in the design (this has two), and very distinctive windows.

This is a church, not a cathedral.  It is one of the largest and oldest mediaeval churches in the UK.  I actually had a sing in it.  Below you can see the interior, with the ceiling's beautiful musical angels.  I thought at first that they were Christmas decorations, but no they are VERY old and a permanent fixture.

A close up of the angels.

 As I have walked it has seemed, over time, that I have been walking in a protective bubble as far as the weather is concerned.  Yes, I have had some wet days, windy days, and cold days, given that it is winter there have not been too many that have affected me.  Today I was talking to the vicar in St Oswald's church in Oswestry and he told me that four years ago at this time the temperature was minus 20, with snow and ice making any sort of travel difficult!  Why am I telling you this?  Well the UK is currently experiencing a "weather bomb" - I think that's fancy language for fierce storms!  Ferocious seas crashing on the coastlines to the north and south, gale force winds bringing trees down and causing power outages (I'm very familiar with that at home), and snow falls with more expected.  Yet despite this weather bomb I have still managed to make forward progress, with a little help!  

Yesterday I did relent and decided for safety's sake that I had best get off the road.  I was walking in a very quiet area, but the wind was so strong that I didn't hear cars approaching and found they were passing me before I was aware of them.  That was when I decided it was time to get off the road.  I hitched with a kind man (a retired aerospce engineer who plans to follow my journey on the blog), who took me sideways to a bus stop where I could catch a bus a mile or so into Trefor and from where I planned to walk along the canal. 

The only thing that I was disappointed about was that the wind was so strong I probably wouldn't be able to walk across the aqueduct - one of my reasons for going this way!  Like I said earlier, I feel as if I am in a protective bubble when it comes to the weather because after I had eaten a sandwich, chatted to the locals in the pub, the wind had dropped sufficiently for me to feel quite safe crossing the aqueduct.  Why was I concerned you ask?  Well, this aqueduct, was built to carry the Llangollen canal across the river Dee.  Designed by Thomas Telford this aqueduct is a 1/4 mile long and is 126 feet high.  It is very exposed, with a railing on one side, but no railing on the canal side and with a pack it would be possible to be blown "off course" - like I had been a few times earlier in the day!  Like I said, its almost as if I have a little bubble of better weather around me, because by the time I was up on the aqueduct the wind had dropped markedly.  Having said that, I kept my left arm across the top of the iron railing for the entire length, and though I paused a couple of times to look out, I didn't look down, or get my camera out!

I found a path through a park leaving Wrexham.  It was sheltered for much of it, and I visited the National Trust manor (actually just the cafe) called Erddig.

Looking down on the Llangollen canal at Trevor

The start of the Pontcysllte aqueduct.......

.....,.and looking back, having crossed it.  A few figures for those interested.  It is 1,007ft long, 11ft wide, stands 126 ft above the River Dee, has 19 spans each 16metres wide.

Looking across at the rail viaduct, from the canal.

The Chirk aqueduct, by contrast, is 70 foot long, and stands 710 foot high.  It is also designed by Thomas Telford.  The higher, and longer, rail viaduct next to it was built after the canal acqueduct.  Maintenance work is being done on the two tunnels and the aqueduct.

The view from the aqueduct at Chirk.  The view from Pontcysyllte is just higher!

A memorial commemorating the quarry workers on the canal.

The church at Chirk.  Actually had this to myself and had a pleasant half hour playing the piano as well as having a sing.

The interior of St Oswald's church at Oswestry, and the exterior below.

I have been trying to get a map of the Offa's Dyke Path, without success.  Thus I may or may not follow some of the path.  I need to start veering away from the border of Wales as I am heading towards Worcester.  Over the past few days google maps has served me well as I have meandered along quiet lanes and byways.

More next time.

Liverpool, the Wirral, and onwards

You may be wondering about this post's title.  The explanation is simple the Wirral is an area across the Mersey from Liverpool.  It is the "top" half of the Wirral Peninsula, a lot of the area this post covers, but not all.

Liverpool was a pleasant surprise, and turned out to be a pleasant stay.  Even the walk through the suburbs into the city wasn't too arduous.  There were a couple of things that made it such a pleasant stay, as a matter of course expecting any walk through miles of suburbs to be tiring and tedious.  Added to that, people had been warning me for days, as I walked through little villages, to be careful:- "hang onto your purse or they'll have it off you", "put your head down and walk as fast as you can", " don't linger".  These were the sort of warning comments I got, for both Liverpool and Manchester - equal advice on both big cities, and euqal reccomendations as to which one to miss.  Needless to say I have navigated the supposed difficulties and come out smiling.

What were the things that made it so pleasant?  The first thing was where I stayed - the Adelphi.  This is a very old Victorian hotel near the railway station, once very grand, complete with lots of marble, chandeliers, and huge rooms.

The second thing that made this such a pleasant stay was the company I had.  Roy, a friend from my 2005 Camino, came from his home near Manchester to spend the day with me.  It is always good to catch up with old friends, especially when they have such huge local knowledge.  Thank you Roy.

The Beatles were ignored in favour of visiting both cathedrals, with the Anglican being the first.  I was very surprised at the size of this cathedral, which is immense.  It turns out that it is actually the largest Cathedral in the UK, and the fifth largest in the world.  The organ in the Church is also one of the largest with over 10,000 pipes!  The main body of the building seats 3,000 people and the "small" chapel underneath seats 300.  I was able to have a bit of a sing there - wasn't game to sing in the main part!

Now, the Catholic Cathedral, a very interesting building indeed.  I already knew it was different as a couple of blokes I'd chatted with over a coffee had told me that it was affectionately known as "Paddy's Wigwam".  Looking on the outside I thought I would not like it, but once inside I changed my mind, a very interesting, beautiful space, with lots of blue glass around the perimeter, and some lovely modern art works too.

On the way to the cathedral we passed this ruined church, destroyed in the second world war, but kept as a memorial for peace.

The exterior of the Anglican Cathedral, and below, a small portion of the vast interior.

Some street art.  The grey guitar case has Paul McCartney's name on it.

Paddys Wigwam exterior, and below, the interior. Both buildings " look" at each other across a distance of about half a mile.  I commented to Roy that they could get out their semaphore flags and send messages if they needed to!

The Christmas tree at the Adelphi.

Having said that Liverpool was a pleasant surprise, it was also the place where I had a bit of traipsing around to do.  My tablet, the equipment I use to post this blog, wasn't working properly and I found I was unable to post pictures on the blog.  After visiting three different computer type store it was established that the only way I could get it sorted was to visit the "geek squad", and the only place nearby was at Aintree where I had walked the day before!   Nothing for it but a train journey back, and then, because it was so late I caught the train the couple of miles to where I was staying that night, in Bromborough.

Things have a way of working out.  I had hoped to get to Chester and stay two nights, but the only accommodation (other than rooms for £150!) was in a tiny little village called Burton.  If I had gone straight to Chester I would not have seen this lovely little village and a couple of lovely gardens!

I have stopped at many Wheatsheaf Inns.  I wished I'd taken a photo of every one of them.  Though I would have loved a coffee at this one it didn't open for another 20 mins and so decides to push on.

This was the weekend of the " Christmas Fayre"!  As I walked through the village of Neston I passed the first one at the High School, the second at the village hall, then a little further down the road, another in the village church!  

With only about 2 miles to get to Burton, I stopped at Ness, a Botanic Garden, and listened to Christmas Carols sung by the local female voice choir (very good).  I had to hold my conducting hand still!  Then on reaching Burton the fair was in full swing in the village hall, and a Christmas tree festival in the village church.  I just had time to have a quick shower and change ready to attend the carol singing in the church along with the bell ringing.This was a sideways day, as I hadn't gained much forward distance, but saw and learned much.  

Because it started to rain as I was leaving Burton the next day I stopped at the coffee shop at the manor house, and before I left I toured the gardens.  As I have often been on this journey, I was a bit of a talking point.  The proprietor of the coffee shop gave me half a packet of the little biscuits that are served with coffee, to give me a pick up if needed!  Just one of the many kindnesses I have received almost daily. 

Walking through Burton I noticed that many of the houses were built on a reddish sandstone, and indeed some of the pavement was just the bare rock.  I learned later that day from a fellow walker that the red sandstone used in building Liverpool Cathedral was quarried at Burton.

A small portion of the Ness garden, donated in memory of the man who created it by his widow.

The glass house at the Manor House at Burton.  Note the intricate iron pathway, centre, wooden floor, left,  and the iron work supports.  Huge cacti on the right and other exotics on the left.

Part of the front garden at the manor house.

From Burton to Chester I followed a cycle path some of which was built over the marshes.  Like the day before I looked across the valley in which the River Dee flows to the hills of Wales.  Direction signs are now in English and Welsh.

Walking towards Burton I had my first glimpse of the Welsh hills sloping, in the distance, towards the Irish Sea.

The next day I headed down towards the marshes, turning left at the sign in front of the cyclists.

Rugged up against a fierce wind, the marshes spreading out behind me, and below, the board walk built above the marsh.

Entering Chester.  I took a short cut along the canal to enter this beautiful old city, but I'll tell you more about it next post.

Canals and roads.

I have had a lovely few days since leaving Lancaster. This was against all my expectations as I thought I would be forced to walk on boring roads most of the way.  Yes, I have been on roads for some of the time, but apart from a couple of busy sections they have been very pleasant. The canals too have been an interesting, pleasant and varied diversion.

Along the way I have met some extraordinarily kind, helpful, and friendly people.  I still take an inordinate amount of time to get to my destination, usually because I stop and chat to people along the way and in the pubs.

The first day was a mixture of quiet back roads and along the canal.  "Mr Google" was exceedingly helpful and took me along the shortest and most pleasant way, and I was pleasantly surprised.  There were nights spent in Garstang, Preston, Rufford and Aughton before heading into Liverpool.

Walking through Woodplumpton I met 79 yr old Judith who was out walking for her health.  She had two hip replacements 40 years ago, and was very interested in what I was doing.  I only moved a few yards up the road to the pub where again I got lots of advice from the locals, and a very tasty bowl of pea and ham soup!

The original hotel in Lancaster, which met with a sad fate due to a fire, figured in two of Dickens novels, and I believe he stayed here.  My room was at the back, and breakfast was served in the corner room with the bay windows. A grand old building, with my favourite book store underneath.

After negotiating the suburbs of Lancaster I then followed the Lancaster canal.

Showing that, despite all the odds, I have walked in sunshine (often).  Though it has rained much more often, I have only had to wear full rain gear for about five days.

In the evening light the surface of the canal was like a mirror.

Along the way I have been staying wherever I can get accommodation, and a few days I have actually had to go out of my way and change my intended route to get a bed.  I have also been making use of the reasonably frequent pubs, for coffee, lunch, and a chat.

 At the hotel in Garstang I chatted to a few people while I waited for a table for dinner. One of the blokes I chatted too wanted to know what I was doing and then informed me that he too had done this trip - on a motor bike.  He did the journey in 18hours 35mins!  I refrained from asking him what he saw on the way!  He later took pride in telling me that I was the talking point at the bar!

 Leaving Preston, I was surprised that there were some quite impressive public buildings.......

 .......and then I came across this memorial on the side of a busy road.  The wooden sign on the right has those famous words by the poet Rupert Brooke-

If I should die, think only this of me;

That there's some corner of a foreign field 

That is for ever England.

Walking to Rufford I passed a golf driving range and stopped in, thinking it might be like a club house.  It was, but very basic.  Helen, behind the desk, made me a coffee and gave me a chocolate bar, refusing payment, so I "sang for my supper".  Every person coming into the room was greeted with words along the lines of:- "This is Janet.  She's Australian and walking to Lands End". I was quite the talking point, which continued when I stopped at the Crown pub in Croston for a coffee.  Here I had lots of helpful advice on how to get to Aughton that evening, and then on to Liverpool.  Everyone in the bar had some snippet of advice which was much appreciated, and they are even going to follow my journey on the blog.

As I have walked along the canals I have thought how nice it would be to have a ride on a canal boat.  Well, I got that opportunity walking along the canal on the frosty ground after Rufford.  I was chatting to a couple on a canal boat as I walked, slowing down considerably to walk at boat speed.  I hitched a ride for the mile down the road, or rather the canal, as Alan and his wife were moving their boat home down the canal to get a different view.  They live on the boat, moving a short distance every few weeks, a very simple life, much like my life is at present.

 Leaving Rufford, following the Rufford branch of the Leeds Liverpool canal, along the frosty ground.

 Boats on the canal not only have to negotiate lochs, but also swing bridges, with the one above opening so that the boat can pass through (below)

And here I am aboard, while my hosts operate the loch.

I hadn't realised that I was passing this famous race track.  I was actually back here the next day, by train, but that's another story for the next post!