A circuitous route to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. Stage One beginning in Munich, Germany ending in Jerusalem - traveling through Austria, Italy, Albania, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Cyprus and Israel. Second stage from Vienna, through Germany, Czech Republic, Holland, Belgium, France and Spain.
Final destination - Santiago!

Post Script: The changeable situation in Jerusalem has led to a change in plans. The Rome to Jerusalem leg of this journey has been changed to the 'End to End' in the UK, after which the journey will resume as above in Vienna.

Tuesday 19 May 2015

Camino Del Norte in Asturias

There is a definite smell in the air.  Although I am still about 20 kms from Galicia I have been walking with a "Galician" smell for the last couple of days.  Those of you who have walked through Galicia will know to what I refer - silage, hay, and cows!  The roads though have been free of cow muck thus far, and I have yet to see a slurry tanker.

Walking in Asturias hasn't all been smelly though.  If it weren't for the architecture, language, and food I could almost be mistaken for being in the Adelaide hills, with the flowering shrubs in the gardens, helped by the milder weather in this part of Spain.  I always associate the eucalyptus with Galicia in Spain, but they are, sadly, just as prolific in this part of Asturias.  Combine the trees with the azaleas, rhododendrons, camelias, ti-tree, and callistemons and those of you who know the hills will know why I think that.

The other thing that has surprised me is the citrus trees in gardens.  In the village of Cadevado almost every garden had a lemon tree in it.

I caught the train to Aviles and crossing the road at the station I saw a man frantically waving.  I ignored him as I assumed he was trying to attract the attention of someone behind me and I didn't recognize him.  He recognized me though, as a pilgrim and it was me he was waving at.  He wanted to point me in the right direction, gave me a yellow arrow brooch, and sent me on my way.  Stopping at an intersection a bit further along a young woman stopped to point me on the way, and then another lady stopped and directed me further along still.  I knew where I was going, but they were obviously all doubtful!

I'm collecting yellow arrows as another man gave me one, a bit bigger, a few days later, and this morning a man gave me a photograph of the village so that I would remember it.
 The first church I saw in Aviles, one of four that I saw.
 These folk, clicked from a distance, were still sitting here an hour later when I came back to the square.
 The clock tower on the "Town Hall" in Aviles.
 A street in Aviles
 The Padres Franciscanos Church. The remains of the seaman Pedro Menedéz are in this church.  He founded the first town in the US - San Agustin de la Florida.
My first view of the coast after leaving Aviles - Salinas.




Election time in Spain is interesting.  Many of the villages have a special board at the entrance, or in prominent places where all candidates display their election posters.  The other thing that happens is audio advertising.  This takes the form of vehicles with posters of the candidate on them and a couple of loudspeakers on the top.  This vehicle then drives slowly around the towns and villages blaring what I can only assume are "vote for me" messages.  These vehicle's are even in quite remote rural areas - not sure who listens to them other than the pilgrims walking along.
                          
I wonder if people know how big these fellows grow?
An Asturian Hórreo at Cadevado.
The distinctive old buildings, including an horreó.

The path for the first few days was pretty tough.  Basically it followed a very windy road that snaked its way around the contours of the hills, but would take a short cut between each bend, which meant going down hill to, and across, the creek, often through muddy sections, and then steeply uphill to the road again.  Once through the village the downhill, cross the creek, then uphill was repeated.  It never went very high, maybe only a 150 meters or so, but from 20 meters low point this was an effort each time.
This creek flowed into the sea (below).

The view from the path. 
I was very relieved to see the path had been slashed over the past few days.  Reports had been that it was very overgrown.
Cadevado beach (above) and the little Ermita on a headland on the outskirts of the village (below).


Another horreó.  There is a plan afoot to make these protected.
What will they think of the modern bridges in a 1,000 years I wonder.  I stood on a bridge and took the road bridge, above, in one direction and an older rail viaduct, below,  on the other side.

On the way to Luarca I passed this little church. 

Luarca is a very pretty fishing village where I spent a very pleasant time exploring.  Also parted with €5 and got my washing done, washed and dried -  worth every bit of that especially as I didn't have to sit and wait for it.
Heading down into Luarca.  I couldn't help thinking this would rival the Cornish village where the TV series Doc Martin is set.

Luarca (above and below).  The little Ermita at the top of the picture on the right is where the path went the next day.


Another of those modern bridges after leaving Luarca.
A church on the way to Navia.
Navia (above & below) ..........
........... and just one example of a Callistemon.

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