A circuitous route to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. Stage One beginning in Munich, Germany ending in Jerusalem - traveling through Austria, Italy, Albania, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Cyprus and Israel. Second stage from Vienna, through Germany, Czech Republic, Holland, Belgium, France and Spain.
Final destination - Santiago!

Post Script: The changeable situation in Jerusalem has led to a change in plans. The Rome to Jerusalem leg of this journey has been changed to the 'End to End' in the UK, after which the journey will resume as above in Vienna.

Monday 27 October 2014

Walking along two of the languid canals of Scotland.

I must say walking along the towpath of both the Forth & Clyde Canal and the Union Canal was a change from the hills and glens of the highlands and very pleasant.  The path skirts some delightful villages, a number of which I detoured into in search of sustenance (and a toilet facility!).  Surprisingly though, I found that I was often out in the country, as the canals made their languid way across Scotland from Glasgow to Edinburgh.

                     
Port Dundas, on the Glasgow branch line of the Forth and Clyde canal.
A swing bridge with a difference near Port Dundas.  This is actually a rail line, moved out of the way to allow big ships to pass through (in the olden days), but then moved across when the train needed to cross.
At last the branch line is left behind and I am now headed towards Kilsyth, and ultimately Falkirk.
The autumn leaves are starting to turn, and here are some on display near Bishopbriggs.
The towpath included not only beautiful autumn leaves, but also beautiful birds.

The journey along the canals took four days and on my second day out I was fortunate to have the company of Charlotte, a friend I met in Orkney.  At the end of the first day I caught the train to Stirling, where she lives, and stayed the night in her home.  It was a real treat, as I accompanied her to the pub after dinner where she played her flute in the music session.  I got to hear a variety of music, mainly traditional folk music, over the three hours or so we were there.  The musicians and instruments were many, including three accordions, about four fiddles, a couple of mouth organs, numerous guitars, a very good spoon percussionist and Charlotte on her lovely wooden flute.

The next day we caught the train back to the canal and together we walked to Falkirk, via a place called the Rough Castle and some of the Antonine Wall, both historic Roman sites.


On the way to Falkirk we went past the Rough Castle and along a little of the Antonin's Wall, part of the Roman Heritage in this area.  The Antonine Wall is a dirt wall (and associated trenches) dug in Roman times for defence purposes.
These pits were for defence purposes too for the Roman Fort, but in Roman times they were covered and hidden, with sharpened stakes at the bottom of them.

Falkirk is the site of the amazing piece of engineering called the Falkirk Wheel.  This boat lift is the only one of its kind in the world.  The photos below give you some idea of the size of it.
The extraordinary Falkirk Wheel a boat lifter which lifts boats in a special gondola from the Forth & Clyde canal and lifts them 35 metres up (or down) from / to the Union canal.  This device replaced 11 locks.
Up on the Union Canal, about to go down to the Forth and Clyde.
The view from the Gondola.
There are two Gondolas.  Here you can see one ascending, and one descending (left).  Look closely and you can see the wheels in the tracks that guide the gondolas. Good old Archimedes and his theory of displacement is in full evidence on the wheel.
This photo, with me standing near, gives some idea of the size of the wheel.
This sculpture is one of two at the wheel site.  There is another site of these further out of town - they have the collective mame of "the kelpies".
The first lock that boats reach when being lifted from the lower (Forth & Clyde) canal to the higher one (Union).
Heading into Falkirk, after having a ride in a boat on the wheel and the canal, we came across these statues.
The next morning, leaving Falkirk, I had to find my way to the Union Canal to get to Edinburgh.  On the way I stopped off in a shopping centre and came across these lovely stained glass windows that were rescued from a demolished manor house and later restored .  The middle figure is Bonnie Prince Charlie.
 Leaving Falkirk.........
..........the first part of the towpath went through a long dimly lit tunnel.  Water plinked and tinkled as it dripped into the canal, and at times it made the bricks on the path very slippery.  I was VERY careful where I put my feet - my boots were worn out, and didn't grip too well. I had no desire to end up in the water!
Along the Union Canal.

The Union Canal goes over several aqueducts.  They are quite high, making for good views, but a bit scary when looking down.  They are also quite scary walking on them in the wind, as one gets buffeted about.
The aqueduct crossing the Avon River (above and below)
I couldn't get affordable accommodation on my last night on the canal and so I booked an extra night in Edinburgh, caught a bus into the city, and the next day I caught it back again and walked into Edinburgh.  What a treat to spend a day walking without a pack!
On the last day on the canal path I passed this narrow boat numerous times.  The wind was so strong that they were having terrible problems getting anywhere as the wind kept blowing them into the side of the bank.  There wasn't a lot of room squeezing under the numerous bridges either.
Here they are crossing the second aqueduct.
Nearly at Edinburgh, but you wouldn't know it from the scenery.
The wind pushed and pulled from all directions, with the flora being nearly flattened at times!
The last few kilometres took ages as I had to keep stopping to admire the sunset.

I had some shopping to do in Edinburgh.  My boots were worn out, and so yesterday I bought a new pair, and today I have spent the day doing tourist things, including visiting Rosslyn Chapel, and checking that all is well in the foot department!  Tomorrow I head south to a town called Melrose where I will connect with St Cuthbert's way at the end of the week.  Not only will I connect with that path, but I will also connect with my niece Greta, who is going to spend a week or so walking with me - a real treat!



1 comment:

  1. I feel that Scottish Tourism should be paying you a stipend. Already plotting what I might do when I next decently can take a term off!

    ReplyDelete