A circuitous route to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. Stage One beginning in Munich, Germany ending in Jerusalem - traveling through Austria, Italy, Albania, Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Cyprus and Israel. Second stage from Vienna, through Germany, Czech Republic, Holland, Belgium, France and Spain.
Final destination - Santiago!

Post Script: The changeable situation in Jerusalem has led to a change in plans. The Rome to Jerusalem leg of this journey has been changed to the 'End to End' in the UK, after which the journey will resume as above in Vienna.

Thursday 18 September 2014

To Thurso and then a tourist in Orkney

After leaving Stirling I headed up to Thurso.  This was a delightful trip on the train.  As we went through Pitlochry I could see the massed bands getting ready for the Highland Games that were held that day.  Most of the crowd on the train were heading there, and at the next stop the football crowds got on getting in good voice for the game to be held in Inverness.  As we followed the coast the mist kept appearing but it stayed away as we headed inland, and I was able to see the beautiful moorland, heather and moss, with the the mist not really coming in till after I settled into my hostel.
I liked Thurso. The gardens were lovely, bright and cheerful.
The dry stone walls gave real character the town, and it is interesting to see the flat stones, topped by upright stones.
A close up of one of the walls.

I had an email from a friend suggesting that I should visit Orkney while I was so close.  I took her advice and headed over to the Islands, for a planned two nights, which changed to three.  

Orkney has an amazing history / heritage.  I made friends with another Australian woman, Cathy, and together we visited a couple of sites ranging in age from 5,000 years, one of about 3,000, a Cathedral about 800 years old, and then a world war two site.  In between I saw magnificent countryside and wonderful coastlines - when it wasn't shrouded in mist!
The ferry left from this village, Scrabster, a couple of miles from Thurso.
The view as we left for Orkney.
And a view from one of the little streets in Strommnes, the village I stayed in for three nights.
The grey building with the two windows was the waterfront cottage I was upgraded to, and which I shared with Charlotte - all for £20!  The kitchen and lounge look out those windows, right across the harbour.
Above and below is the village of Strommnes.  I liked it so much I stayed an extra night.

The harbour at Strommnes, and the ferry heading back to Thurso.
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This is an Australian connection to Orkney.  This was the home of Eliza Fraser who was shipwrecked on the Great Barrier Reef and  who Fraser Island is named after.
 The 5,000 year old house, called Skara Brae.  You can see the "Dresser" against the back wall, and beds at the side.  This is the original of the replica house below.
Cathy has to bend right down to get into the room of the house.  This is a replica of the house, which allows people to see close hand what the house looked like, but saved the original from too much traffic.  The dry stone walls are amazing, but it is because the houses were made of stone that they have survived in such good condition.


 When we visited the other 5,000 year old building, which was a burial tomb, we had to haul ourselves through the opening tunnel on the trolley that Cathy is on.  There was not a lot of room, and a rope from the roof of the tunnel helped us move the trolley.  This site was called the Tomb of the Eagles, because sea eagle tallons were found inside.
 Fortunately the sun came out when we got to Saint Margaret's Hope.
We visited the Italian Chapel, a chapel that was built by Italian prisoners of war who were building the breakwater.  The authorities allowed them to build this chapel from two Nissan huts.
 The painting behind the altar.  St Francis and St Catherine of Siena are on each side.

 St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall, the largest town in the Orkneys.
The following pictures are all scenes from the coastline near the Tomb of the Eagles. The bus didn't run to this part of the island and so Cathy and I hitched there.




The ferry left from St Margaret's Hope, in the mist!  I couldn't see a thing, but these boats were just by the ferry as I left.  This was two days ago and the mist has yet to lift.

Today is Thursday, voting day.  I have passed several polling booths on the first day of my new journey.  While on Orkney, I saw many signs for "Yes", but sometimes I would get a surprise and see a burst of "No's".  We shall see what the results bring.  There are many passionate people on the Yes side as well as the No side, but talking to people there are also many undecided.

My journey has begun, but I will tell you about it next post.  

3 comments:

  1. Now I could be wrong, but I think Thurso is where my cousins have a cafe. Could never quite understand how they would get enough trade up there, but if it is close to the Orkneys, I guess that is why! They are certainly somewhere way up north, and supposedly had to get down to Inverness to deliver a baby. Baby had other ideas and managed to be delivered outside a medical centre en route, in terrible weather. It all became a full on drama though all was well that ended well!

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  2. Meant to say, I love that little Italian chapel. What a treasure from an awful time.

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  3. Janet, Janet, Janet (sigh) . You are living the dream that we all wish to do.....

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