Tough Days

The last three days have been very tough hiking.  I would rate them just about as tough as any bushwalk I have done, with the exception that there has been at least one cafe per day to get refreshments, a shower and a comfy bed each night, and clean clothes at the start of each day.

Even leaving Bologna had its difficulties, with time being wasted walking in circles at one point until I found this - the first sign.  All up hill from here!

The other thing that is different is that there have been kind, and generous, people to help me along the way.  People like Claudia and her husband Sylvano.  They gave me a delicious dinner the night I arrived at their place (below), and then the next day Claudia loaded me up with food to eat on the way and Sylvano took me to the start of the path, shaving some distance but more importantly making sure I didn't get lost right at the beginning of the day.

Casa Claudia.  We had dinner sitting outside in the soft warmth of evening.

Sylvano dropped me at the start of the Flaminia Minor, an old Roman road, which naturally goes straight up!  Near the top of the first hill this rock was a perfect place to catch my breath.

This was the view I had as I left Sylvanos car - the path, first descending, and then snaking its way uphill along the ridge top.

On my first day away from the city, I must admit there were a couple of times where I wondered if I was on the right path!

especially on this stretch!  Where is it!!!

Sometimes there were special little rest stops though, making for a pleasant interlude.

The trail is generally well marked, but every so often there is a marker missing, which happened yesterday when I found myself about 2 kms downhill, past where I should have turned off.  It was hot (very), and the prospect of climbing back up did not appeal and so I flagged down a car and asked them to take me back to where I had missed the path.  I found myself in a car with three noisy people arguing about where I should be!  To curb their debate I got out the Italian version of my notes and passed it to them, and, once we were there they got out of the car, re-read the notes confirming that the unmarked dirt track WAS the right one and sent me on my way.

It was at the church tower that I missed the turn,

and this is the steep path I took (looking back up the hill) - the tower is in the distance.

Looking across at the house where I should have been in the distance.  This gives you an idea of the sort of management issues to be dealt with in terms of road works.

At the end of this day I was headed for this village, San Martino in Pedriolo.  I stayed at a refuge next to the church, the red building in the distance.

The accommodation was basically half of the first floor of the building next to the church.  It had a lounge room, kitchen, two bedrooms sleeping about 6 - 8 in each and a roomy bathroom and laundry.  I had the place to myself.

This is an ancient land I am passing over, but very unstable.  There is no rock in the soil, it being a chalky, clay based consistency.   I am walking on fragile ridge tops where, today, there were parts of the road that had sunk as the land subsided.  Indeed several guard rails I passed wouldn't have stopped a thing - they were hanging in mid air!  All that remained of a church on the hilltop was it's tower - the rest of the building had collapsed.  Apparently these land formations are always on the south side of the slopes, where it is coldest in the winter and the northern slopes are flourishing with crops, vineyards and fruit trees.  It must be unbelievably difficult for the authorities to manage the infrastructure such as roads, but also for the farmers whose land is slowly being eroded away.

The building might be falling down, but the vegetable garden is well tended.

I quite often use guard rails to have a seat and a short rest, but not this one.  That middle post is not attached to anything, and the ones out of sight have a distinct lean.

These land formations are fascinating.  I have to school myself to restrict the photos passing them!

I thought the first formations were fascinating until I went around the corner and down the hill and saw the size of them, and this is only a part of it!  On the top of the hill you can see the church tower which remains standing, though the rest of the building collapsed.  This kind of country makes for long distances walking too.  I actually walked past the tower, then the path came around to the left of the picture along the ridge, at times no more than a large car width wide, and then swung around the base of these "hills".

One has to wonder how long before that house will remain there.

Again I think of the song "the wise man built his house upon the rock".  The trouble is there is no rock here to build upon!

Bologna

Bologna is a city of arcades. Not the type of shopping arcades we get in Australia, but rather massive verandahs with elegant columns that protect the pedestrian from the elements.  As much of the old city of Bologna has these collonaded arcades, one can only assume that there is a reasonable amount of time each year when the elements must be quite severe!

The colonnaded arcades are many and varied, as you can see from these photos.

This arcade is near my hotel.

If the arcade stops there are overhanging buildings that give some shelter.

 Sometimes the columns go on for a loooong time.......

.......and sometimes are richly decorated.

I arrived in Bologna by train.  When showing the hotel receptionist in Ferrara the directions for walking she was horrified, as there was a considerable distance on main roads. Later, over lunch, Michael also confirmed this and so I decided that safety was my prime concern and hopped on a train, smiling all the way to the station as I listened to the creaks and rattles  of the bikes passing to and fro.

 I couldn't resist taking a photo of the post bike in Ferrara (every other place delivers mail either by van or scooter).

and here in Ferrara a couple of young women stop to get some running repairs.

Bologna is a very vibrant city, friendly, and easy to get around, though pretty expensive. I knew little about it till I arrived here, least of all how big it is.  I also didn't realise that this city is also known for its towers.  Interestingly one of them looks to me to have more of a lean than the Pisa tower!

This is the base of one of the towers in Bologna.  I think the lean on it as much, if not more than the Pisa tower.  Hopefully you can see the sort of lean I mean from the three photos below.

The leaning tower, the smaller of the two, was 

lowered because of fear of collapse.  It is just over 48 m high while the taller one is just over 97 m high.

So much of these northern towns have their historic buildings shrouded in scaffolding and fabric as busy beavers work behind restoring them.  This is the side of the massive cathedral, the front had a dress of scaffolding.

King Neptune, near the central square of Bologna, and below, part of one of the old buildings in Piazza Maggiore.

 An old building in the market area.

 I love looking through the gates and doors, and also the patterns made.

Here is a good reason to underground power lines!  These lines look like they are for trams, but there is no sign of tram tracks!

A canal flowing through Bologna.

A public building on the Plaza Maggiore, complete with a stone "lounge suite".

Life is full of surprises

The first surprise is the city I am in - cycling city!  However barely a sign of lycra....... or helmets........ or flash bikes!!!

I arrived in Ferrara, a UNESCO world heritage site, on Saturday, by bus.  I had been walking along the Po cycle way along one of the levee banks.  The levee banks are quite high and wide, and there are times when they are some distance from the river - the Po is a big river and would need a lot of space in the event of a flood.

Walking towards Bergantino, along the levee bank.  You can judge the height a little by seeing the gap from the road on the left, the access ramp in the centre and the top of the bank on the right.

The levee bank has access via ramps and stairs.  This gives a good idea of the height.

The river is quite some distance away here.  The flood plain is very fertile, and every opportunity is taken for cropping.

The Po, near Ostiglia.

Without a skeric of shelter from sun or rain while on this path, and waking to thunder and lightning I decided it was prudent to hop on a bus, very prudent in light of the story of those struck by lightning in LA!  I had no desire to be the highest point on the highest point!  The thunder storms continued throughout the day, even 28 kms down the road, and interestingly, the bus took 1 hour 10 minutes to get here!  I saw a whole lot more on the bus, going into each little village than I would ever have seen on the levee bank!

Anyway back to the surprises.  The first one was leaving the station, at the end of the journey.  Here I saw - a bike park, big bikes, small bikes, new bikes, and old bikes.  I just can't wipe the smile off my face every time I go outside, just seeing ( and hearing) all the bikes.  I have since read that Ferrara is one of the cities with the largest number of bikes in the world.  I can believe it from what I've seen.

The first bike park I came across.

The bikes carry all sorts of things, including pooches!

It tickled my fancy seeing people riding and holding an umbrella in one hand while steering with the other.  I sat in the square watching, fascinated, as bikes came from every direction, and as I wandered the streets the "parking" of the bikes took my eye!  The air is filled with the soft rattle of them as they roll across the cobbles, the squeaks as they are shaken, and the periodic screach of brakes.

Trying to keep dry!

Baby sits in the red seat, mum or dad sit on the bike seat, and toddler (up to about 5 yrs) sits on the black seat behind.  No fear of baby getting dust in their eye - note the wind shield!

When bumping into friends, one stops for a chat, sometimes for a very long time!

Got to shop?  Just park anywhere!

Piazza Trento Trieste. 

The Cathedral wall right, and the town hall, back left.  The tower is just like the castle towers and this was originally the home of the Duke's family, until they upgraded and moved into the Castello.

Enough of cycles, now the other surprise while in Ferrara - I spent a day with a former pupil of mine and her husband.  We were both equally surprised to see each other, and indeed if it hadn't been for Margaret's eagle eye I would have continued ignoring the pedestrians because of my fascination with the cyclists.  Thus, I had great company visiting the city, including the castle, and shared a delightful lunch with them.  A wonderful day indeed, especially as it was so unexpected.

Part, a small one, of the Castelllo Estense, Ferrara

The ceiling frescoes in the castle, reflected in mirrors.  Note the strips of "masking tape", presumably part of the protection / restoration process.

The castle wall taken from the orange grove on a terrace in the castle.

Looking out on a street through a " hole" in the brick work at the orange grove.

 The bell tower

The Cattedrale exterior,

and inside, just after Mass.

It's Monday - the chairs aren't needed so they're stacked!