Liverpool was a pleasant surprise, and turned out to be a pleasant stay. Even the walk through the suburbs into the city wasn't too arduous. There were a couple of things that made it such a pleasant stay, as a matter of course expecting any walk through miles of suburbs to be tiring and tedious. Added to that, people had been warning me for days, as I walked through little villages, to be careful:- "hang onto your purse or they'll have it off you", "put your head down and walk as fast as you can", " don't linger". These were the sort of warning comments I got, for both Liverpool and Manchester - equal advice on both big cities, and euqal reccomendations as to which one to miss. Needless to say I have navigated the supposed difficulties and come out smiling.
What were the things that made it so pleasant? The first thing was where I stayed - the Adelphi. This is a very old Victorian hotel near the railway station, once very grand, complete with lots of marble, chandeliers, and huge rooms.
The second thing that made this such a pleasant stay was the company I had. Roy, a friend from my 2005 Camino, came from his home near Manchester to spend the day with me. It is always good to catch up with old friends, especially when they have such huge local knowledge. Thank you Roy.
The Beatles were ignored in favour of visiting both cathedrals, with the Anglican being the first. I was very surprised at the size of this cathedral, which is immense. It turns out that it is actually the largest Cathedral in the UK, and the fifth largest in the world. The organ in the Church is also one of the largest with over 10,000 pipes! The main body of the building seats 3,000 people and the "small" chapel underneath seats 300. I was able to have a bit of a sing there - wasn't game to sing in the main part!
Now, the Catholic Cathedral, a very interesting building indeed. I already knew it was different as a couple of blokes I'd chatted with over a coffee had told me that it was affectionately known as "Paddy's Wigwam". Looking on the outside I thought I would not like it, but once inside I changed my mind, a very interesting, beautiful space, with lots of blue glass around the perimeter, and some lovely modern art works too.
On the way to the cathedral we passed this ruined church, destroyed in the second world war, but kept as a memorial for peace.
The exterior of the Anglican Cathedral, and below, a small portion of the vast interior.
Some street art. The grey guitar case has Paul McCartney's name on it.
Paddys Wigwam exterior, and below, the interior. Both buildings " look" at each other across a distance of about half a mile. I commented to Roy that they could get out their semaphore flags and send messages if they needed to!
The Christmas tree at the Adelphi.
Having said that Liverpool was a pleasant surprise, it was also the place where I had a bit of traipsing around to do. My tablet, the equipment I use to post this blog, wasn't working properly and I found I was unable to post pictures on the blog. After visiting three different computer type store it was established that the only way I could get it sorted was to visit the "geek squad", and the only place nearby was at Aintree where I had walked the day before! Nothing for it but a train journey back, and then, because it was so late I caught the train the couple of miles to where I was staying that night, in Bromborough.
Things have a way of working out. I had hoped to get to Chester and stay two nights, but the only accommodation (other than rooms for £150!) was in a tiny little village called Burton. If I had gone straight to Chester I would not have seen this lovely little village and a couple of lovely gardens!
I have stopped at many Wheatsheaf Inns. I wished I'd taken a photo of every one of them. Though I would have loved a coffee at this one it didn't open for another 20 mins and so decides to push on.
This was the weekend of the " Christmas Fayre"! As I walked through the village of Neston I passed the first one at the High School, the second at the village hall, then a little further down the road, another in the village church!
With only about 2 miles to get to Burton, I stopped at Ness, a Botanic Garden, and listened to Christmas Carols sung by the local female voice choir (very good). I had to hold my conducting hand still! Then on reaching Burton the fair was in full swing in the village hall, and a Christmas tree festival in the village church. I just had time to have a quick shower and change ready to attend the carol singing in the church along with the bell ringing.This was a sideways day, as I hadn't gained much forward distance, but saw and learned much.
Because it started to rain as I was leaving Burton the next day I stopped at the coffee shop at the manor house, and before I left I toured the gardens. As I have often been on this journey, I was a bit of a talking point. The proprietor of the coffee shop gave me half a packet of the little biscuits that are served with coffee, to give me a pick up if needed! Just one of the many kindnesses I have received almost daily.
Walking through Burton I noticed that many of the houses were built on a reddish sandstone, and indeed some of the pavement was just the bare rock. I learned later that day from a fellow walker that the red sandstone used in building Liverpool Cathedral was quarried at Burton.
A small portion of the Ness garden, donated in memory of the man who created it by his widow.
The glass house at the Manor House at Burton. Note the intricate iron pathway, centre, wooden floor, left, and the iron work supports. Huge cacti on the right and other exotics on the left.
Part of the front garden at the manor house.
Walking towards Burton I had my first glimpse of the Welsh hills sloping, in the distance, towards the Irish Sea.
The next day I headed down towards the marshes, turning left at the sign in front of the cyclists.
Rugged up against a fierce wind, the marshes spreading out behind me, and below, the board walk built above the marsh.
Entering Chester. I took a short cut along the canal to enter this beautiful old city, but I'll tell you more about it next post.
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