Thursday 14 May 2015

Camino de San Salvador - Part 3

I thought the day I ascended the mountains from La Pola de Gordón was spectacular, but just check out the views below for the next day from Poladura de la Tercia, down to Pajeres (or Payares).  It was long and hard going up the first two ascents, before the last gentler climb up to Pajeres, but it was, before that, the final descent that was the scariest.

It took me about three hours to go down about five kilometers.  I was part way down and realized that it was too hard to go back up and so there was nothing for it but to continue on.  My poles were used continuously on this descent as I was very conscious of safety and tried hard not to think of the worst case scenario, which in my mind was not a pretty one!  However, at snails pace, I eventually made it to the albergue where there was a warm welcome from the three other pilgrims and Marissa, the hospitalero.  I found muscles in my arms and legs I didn't know I had, but the good company and lovely meal Marissa cooked for us made me soon forget my aches and pains.
Looking towards the start of the first climb.......
...... and back, leaving Poladura de la Tercia.




This is the false top, there's still another kilometer to go to get there!


I managed to avoid this patch of snow by walking around the bottom edge, ........
..... but carefully crossed this drift.
The view at the top was spectacular.

Nearly had wet feet crossing this stream!
My friends by now we're far ahead, and so they missed seeing inside this beautiful Romanesque Church at Santa Maria de Arbas, which was open when I went past.  I had a good sing, and got a sello in my credential.



The final descent for the day - almost all the way down into this valley.........
...... and the VERY dodgy paths I used.  One slip and it was a long way down!
Thankfully though the path eventually widened out into something easier to walk on.  Though it doesn't look it here, it was still very steep.
 Marrisa, the hospitalero, saying "hasta luego".
 Heading off from Pajeres.


This day wasn't without adventure either.  The day began by finishing the descent from the previous day into the valley below, followed by a comparatively comfortable climb up to the hillside village of Santa Marina.  Here I had my next minor adventure, firstly taking a steep path uphill, before deciding I was wrong and retracing my steps.  How I hate that - so much energy wasted!  The next part of the way was 30 meters after the church (pictured below) where it went through a gate.  

The only trouble was there was a very big dog (a pyrenean mountain dog, I think) lying on the other side, with a number of sheep behind.  These dogs guard the sheep, and I had already been barked at a number of times walking past sheep so I was extremely reluctant to go through that gate.  All my pilgrim friends had long since gone, and there wasn't a sign of anyone in the village.  Eventually I saw a señora doing some light pruning.  I gave chase and asked her the way.  I mimed that I was nervous about "el perro" (which, I must admit, was wagging his tail!) and she tried to reassure me that he was fine.  She didn't succeed, and eventually led me through that gate, across the field and through another one past a donkey, and the final one where she waved me on my way to the next village, Llanos de Samerón.
The church at Santa Marina, the gate just out of site on the right.
In the village of Llanos de Somerón I had rest and refreshments under the tree, and watched the locals going about their business, including shopping at the fruit and vege van that arrived while I was there.
On the Camino Frances many of the dilapidated buildings are being restored, something I have noticed since I first walked it in 2005.  On this route though there are very many buildings in a sorry state, in many cases only fit for demolition I suspect.
The pre Romanesque church of  Sta. Cristina de Lena was a delight inside and out.  I was lucky enough to have it opened an hour early so I could see inside (and have a sing!).  A peaceful spot with an amazing view in all directions - worth the steep climb up to it.





The view looking back at Campomanes from the little church.  Its down hill now to Mieres, followed by three uphills to Oviedo - the finish of the Camino de San Salvador.

 Mieres is in Asturias, famous for its cider - sidra.  There are siderias everywhere and this statue in a square in Mieres shows how they pour the cider into the glasses.
 Leaving Mieres and heading uphill, past colorful houses........
....... and passing the traditional Asturian storage places.
 Olloniego - only two more hills to Oviedo!
It was market time in Oviedo.

 The view of the Cathedral San Salvador from my bedroom window in Oviedo. Below left - St James (left) chats to St John, and right - the cloisters at the Cathedral.


San Salvador. 
A street scene in Oviedo.


Today I collected my certificate from the Cathedral, posted it home, and have caught a train to Aviles where I'm picking up the Camino del Norte.  I may have to find an alternative means of traveling for a few days as I have to be in Santiago by the first of June.  More to come.

1 comment:

  1. Congratulations on completing the Camino San Salvador! We leave for Germany on Thursday 21st. Haven't heard from you for many months - presume you've been getting my emails?
    Happy wandering!
    Chris

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